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Circular fashion: moral effects and ethical implications
School of Business, Economics and Law, Gothenburg, Sweden.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-0186-0358
2023 (English)In: Fashion aesthetics and ethics: past and present / [ed] Louise Wallenberg; Andrea Kollnitz, Bloomsbury Visual Arts , 2023, 1, p. 25-44Chapter in book (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

Recently the fashion industry has been criticized for not taking responsibility for the amounts of garments going to waste. This critique adds to the previous list of problematizations of the fashion industry. In this presentation I focus on fashion as a contested practice, one that is subject to extensive and continuous critique from various stakeholders regarding multiple issues. I use institutional theory to discuss different ways the industry has deployed to defend and maintain this practice. A case study of adoption of circular economy within Sweden serves as an example. Here firms have implemented various activities to circumvent critique, seemingly aiming to prolong the life of garments, reduce waste, increase reuse and instigate recycling. Particularly common are take-back systems, services that provide consumers with the possibility to return used garments and receive a discount. The case study illustrates different types of institutional work effective at different levels, for instance political action, collaboration with competitors and decoupling. While such institutional work also entails minor practice change, the main outcome appears to be that practice continues much in the same way. I then discuss the usefulness of the framing of fashion as a contested practice and, drawing on the case, what this particular framing can help us understand about contemporary fashion. I argue that it helps us gain a broader image of fashion and what it may mean in a complex world. And the various ways that this image develops.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Bloomsbury Visual Arts , 2023, 1. p. 25-44
National Category
Business Administration
Research subject
sustainability
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:umu:diva-212967DOI: 10.5040/9781350198562.ch-001ISBN: 978-1-3501-9853-1 (print)ISBN: 978-1-3501-9852-4 (print)ISBN: 978-1-3501-9856-2 (electronic)ISBN: 978-1-3501-9854-8 (electronic)ISBN: 978-1-3501-9855-5 (electronic)OAI: oai:DiVA.org:umu-212967DiVA, id: diva2:1788987
Projects
Relations within Circular Business Models
Funder
Swedish Research Council Formas, 2019-00520Available from: 2023-08-17 Created: 2023-08-17 Last updated: 2023-08-23Bibliographically approved

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Stål, Herman

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CiteExportLink to record
Permanent link

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Cite
Citation style
  • apa
  • ieee
  • modern-language-association-8th-edition
  • vancouver
  • Other style
More styles
Language
  • de-DE
  • en-GB
  • en-US
  • fi-FI
  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
  • sv-SE
  • Other locale
More languages
Output format
  • html
  • text
  • asciidoc
  • rtf