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When sustainable cuisine imaginaries become unsustainable: Storage and preservation practices in Swedish restaurants
School of Hospitality, Culinary Arts and Meal Science, Örebro ¨ University, Grythyttan, Sweden.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-3695-7341
2021 (English)In: International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science, ISSN 1878-450X, E-ISSN 1878-4518, Vol. 24, article id 100353Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Sustainability is a key concern within the restaurant industry, which offers a variety of initiatives and approaches to it. This, in turn, creates different shared understandings, what we here call sustainable cuisine imaginaries. The practices fostered by these imaginaries are now facing unforeseen challenges due to the coronavirus pandemic, creating a dissonance in the way restaurants normally operate. By using storage and preservation practices as an entry point, this ethnographic study of six Swedish restaurants uses the concept of imaginaries to explore the different beliefs and ideals for restaurant sustainability and the practices fostered by those ideals. Three distinct imaginaries of sustainable cuisine were identified: locality as a quality, reducing meat in favor of vegetables, and the creative and knowledgeable professional. These imaginaries are materialized through different storage facilities, like root cellars, wine cellars, or meat aging fridges. This study shows how disruptions in restaurants, triggered by unexpected situations, exposed the fragility of these imaginaries. We argue that the sustainable cuisine imaginaries, as a complexity reducing mechanism, help restaurant professionals manage the intricacy of sustainability. However, they also demonstrate an array of simple solutions very susceptible to external factors. Sustainable practices can thus easily become unsustainable.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Elsevier, 2021. Vol. 24, article id 100353
Keywords [en]
food storage, restaurant sustainability, imaginaries, fridge stories
National Category
Other Social Sciences not elsewhere specified
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:umu:diva-190743DOI: 10.1016/j.ijgfs.2021.100353ISI: 000663588000010Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-85106233677OAI: oai:DiVA.org:umu-190743DiVA, id: diva2:1622695
Funder
Swedish Research Council Formas, 2018-00677Available from: 2021-12-23 Created: 2021-12-23 Last updated: 2026-08-21Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Sustainable gastronomy in motion: imaginaries and everyday practice in the gastronomic sector
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Sustainable gastronomy in motion: imaginaries and everyday practice in the gastronomic sector
2026 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Alternative title[sv]
Hållbar gastronomi i rörelse : föreställningar och vardagspraktiker i den gastronomiska sektorn
Abstract [en]

Sustainability within the food system is one of society’s most pressing challenges and sustainable gastronomy has emerged as the gastronomy sector's response to this critical issue. Gastronomic professionals are important actors because they mediate between producers, suppliers, and consumers. Although they are generally considered to encourage sustainable food choices and practices, little is known about how sustainability is put into practice in their everyday work. The aim of this thesis is therefore to explore and analyze how sustainability, gastronomy, and culture intertwine within the Swedish gastronomic sector.

The thesis is based on two ethnographic studies: one on food storage and preservation practices in Swedish restaurants, and one following wild Arctic char through its gastronomic supply chain in Sápmi. The theoretical framework draws on cultural sustainability, culinary capital, social norms, commoditization and singularization, and imaginaries as understood within cultural political economy. The findings show that sustainable gastronomy is shaped by dominant imaginaries of locality, seasonality, skilled and creative professionals, authenticity, and heritage. These imaginaries are also enacted as stewardship, self-reliance, and craftsmanship, which can be understood as forms of culinary capital. Gastronomic actors translate sustainability into practice while acting as intermediaries who showcase food products and practices through imaginaries of quality, tradition, and place. The study also identifies a gap between sustainability as imaginary and as practice, shaped by cultural meanings, social norms, access and exclusion, and the material conditions of food production, preparation, and service.

Sustainable gastronomy is not enacted as a fixed set of principles, but through everyday negotiations between locality and accessibility, craftsmanship and efficiency, ecological stewardship and economic viability, as well as cultural meanings and market value. Sustainable gastronomy is best understood as context-dependent and in motion: continuously negotiated, adapted, and transformed by the actors who put it into practice. Addressing these tensions requires more than individual commitment; it calls for collaboration across the sector, strong institutional support, and locally grounded strategies that treat culture as central to how sustainability is understood and enacted.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Umeå: Umeå University, 2026. p. 113
Keywords
Sustainability, gastronomic actors, restaurant professionals, food storage spaces, wild Arctic char, food culture
National Category
Other Social Sciences not elsewhere specified
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:umu:diva-257972 (URN)978-91-6850-122-2 (ISBN)978-91-6850-121-5 (ISBN)
Public defence
2026-09-18, Lokal: Hörsal UB.A.230 – Lindellhallen 3, Umeå, 13:00 (English)
Opponent
Supervisors
Funder
Umeå University
Available from: 2026-08-28 Created: 2026-08-21 Last updated: 2026-08-24Bibliographically approved

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Carrillo Ocampo, Julia CristinaMarshall, Matilda

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Citation style
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